The ultimate canoe adventure-Labrador

When I think of the ultimate canoe adventure, I picture myself somewhere in northern Canada. Actually to be more specific, Labrador. Why Labrador, you ask. Well lets go back in time a bit and let me tell you about an incredible adventure that has whet my appetite. It is July 1903, two men and their Guide are about to set out on an incredible journey through the Northwestern section of Labrador. There are no maps to guide them, only tales of the great caribou migration and beautiful, but desolate terrain. There are reports of an Indian tribe called the Neskaupi, which has never been seen by white men wholly because none has ever been insane enough to explore this region. It is an area that does not lend itself well to exploration. Winter comes early and stays late, and if that is not enough to discourage you, then consider the black flies, mosquitoes, and all their relatives that can make life miserable in the short time between winters entrapment. Leonidas Hubbard, a writer for Outside magazine based in N.Y.C. and his friend Dillon Wallace, an attorney also from N.Y., boarded a steamer in the early Spring of 1903 loaded with gear and supplies and headed North. In early July, they arrived at the Hudson’s Bay Trading Company’s, Northwest River Post on Grand Lake, Labrador. On July 15, they loaded their canoe and headed out. Carrying an enormous load which included, 4- 50 lb sacks of flour, 30 lbs of bacon, 20 lbs of lard, etc., etc., they went looking for the mouth of the Naskaupi river. Their hopes were to follow it upstream to Lake Michikamau and then north, down the George river to Ungava bay to journey’s end at the George’s River, Hudson Bay Post. Their first error was in mistaking the Susan River for the Neskaupi. The Susan, although part of the same drainage basin as the Neskaupi, was a much smaller river and presented a difficult challenge to our 3 adventurers, much more so then their intended route would have. With no maps or local inhabitants with which to confer they pressed on, unaware of what lay ahead. When September rolled around the decision was made to turn back. Having spent the last 2 months laboring through and over some incredible terrain they were out of food, disheartened, and in their minds, had no choice. Mistake #2, had they only explored a bit further they would have discovered they were actually camped on the shores of a back water to Lake Michikamau. From here it would have been a cake walk to journey’s end compared to what they had been through. On the long return trek they endured incredible hardships. The fish and game so abundant earlier, had all but disappeared. So desperate for food were they that the hide and hoofs of a caribou shot a month before, were searched out and consumed with a passion. As the elements began to close in and take their toll, Hubbard succumbed, and died. Wallace, along with the guide survived, eventually making it back to the Hudson’s Bay Company Post on Grand Lake, where they spent the winter, then returned home, only to return 2 years later for another attempt. This time however the scene had changed somewhat. Now we have two parties. Hubbard’s wife, Mina, leading one and her former friend, now arch rival Wallace in charge of the other. Blaming Wallace for her husband’s death, she was on a mission to prove the voyage could be done and was determined to complete it before Wallace. As fate would have it both parties set out from opposite sides of Grand Lake on the same day, June 27, 1905. If I could go back in time, this would be my destination. What makes it even more intriguing is that a friend of mine actually retraced the the routes and wrote a book about it. If you want to know how it turns out, I suggest you read it. It is called “Great Heart”, by John Rugge and James West Davidson. If those names sound familiar, which they should to a canoeist, they also authored “The Complete Wilderness Paddler”, one of the best books ever written on “how to” canoeing. I would also suggest reading the accounts of the journey written by the original players. “Lure of the Labrador Wild” and “The Long Labrador Trail” by Dillon Wallace, along with Mina Hubbard's “ A Woman's Way Through Labrador”. Until next time, Happy Paddling!!!