Car Topping Long Boats

As modern times dictate smaller vehicles with shorter roof lines, transporting longer canoes/kayaks becomes increasingly challenging. The main issue here is that there is simply not enough room between the racks to adequately support the hull of your craft. Add to this the lighter construction of boats to save weight making them a bit more delicate especially in the wider sections and you have a recipe for disaster; either cracking the hull from tying it down to tightly or having it ripped off your vehicle by the wind. If you find yourself in this situation there a several things you can do to save your boat and give you piece of mind while you travel. But first, let’s look at the problem so we understand what it is we are trying to solve.

The main issue, as stated above, there is simply not enough room between the racks (crossbars) to do the job properly. You have a 17’ canoe lashed down to your roof with straps approximately 5’ apart. Basic math will tell you this leaves over 2/3rds of the hull unattached. Now we can and should attached lines to the bow and stern but they do not have the same effect as attachments that wrap completely around the hull. When the wind hits the boat it will try to pivot it around the forward rack. The more you have in front of this crossbar, the more surface area the wind has to work on. One solution I use is to put as little of the boat out in front of the forward crossbar as possible. There is not much pressure on the rear crossbar, unless, the front one lets go(been there, this is not a good deal). Just make sure you do not have too much hanging out the back to cause a problem with another vehicle. Refining a bit more, try putting the canoe or kayak on backwards. Most hulls today are asymmetrical which means the two ends are not identical. The bow or front of the craft generally is higher sided than the rear/stern. Putting it on in reverse reduces the amount of surface area even more. Now some people have a problem with this, superstition I guess. All I can say is that it works for me. Another issue with narrow spacing on the roof racks is that the widest part of the hull is sitting on the crossbars. On a high end, lightweight craft this can be a serious issue. These boats are fabricated as light as possible. While sitting in the water the structure is fine however set it on a flat surface and torque it down to tightly you can oil can the hull and possible fracture it. For kayaks there are various attachments you can purchase such as “J” cradles or saddles. These work as far as saving the hull from fracture but you are still stuck with most of the hulls length exposed to the wind and the twisting effect mentioned above.

Not long ago I needed to transport a 17’ lightweight tandem kayak over to Lake George. This was not going to work well on my Subaru Forester. The racks are just to close together. After much deep thought I remembered back to my racing days. Back then as is today, these boats were very long and fragile and transporting them was always an issue. A great approach I used was to first tie an aluminum ladder to the racks. This acts as a platform for the boat. You can tighten the living daylights out of the ladder and not hurt it at all. Next you put the canoe/kayak on to the ladder and tie it down. The tie down points are not limited by the crossbars on the rack but rather the length of the ladder. This allows you to get the ropes/straps more towards the ends of the hull. You will still have the wind trying to twist and torque things around but now it will be putting the pressure on the ladder vs the boat. Just be prepared for some strange looks as people pass you buy, wonder what on earth you are doing.

Kayak Paddles

Nothing bothers me more than seeing a person in a kayak basically rowing the boat, usually with a paddle that is 10 times longer than it should be. Which brings me to my next pet peeve, people paddling with a kayak paddle that is way to long? How do you know what size is right? Let’s talk about it.
The first thing you need to understand is how you paddle. Paddling style will dictate the overall length you will need as well as the type of boat you are in and the style of blade. For starters let’s look at the stroke itself. All too often as mentioned above I see people literally rowing their kayaks. Paddle almost parallel to the water using big arcing strokes that cause the boat to veer right then left as each stroke is applied. This is actually called a sweep stroke and used for corrective measures. The proper form is to keep the paddle shaft as vertical (90°) to the surface of the water as possible which in turn will allow you to draw your paddle stroke parallel to your direction of travel pulling your craft in a straight line.
There are basically two types of kayak paddling styles you will hear people discuss, high and low angle. High angle being vertical or within a few degrees of it, while low angle will drop down some but should still be less than 20° off vertical. The lower your angle of paddle, the longer the paddle will need to be. Check out the Olympic sprint kayaking races this if you want to see truly great form.
Your hands should be placed about shoulder width apart and put those drip rings out where the shaft meets the blade (the throat). This will keep the water from dripping into your lap. If you need a marker for hand placement put a small piece of tape on the shaft. As you paddle, the entire blade should be submerged in the water but no deeper than required to get it below the surface. Make sure the top hand is pushed straight forward using your shoulders and keep it level with your chin.
Next let’s look at the width of the craft. The idea behind a self propelled water craft is to be efficient. Remember, you are the power supply, not a 50 hp outboard. The narrower/longer the kayak the more efficient it will be in moving through the water. Relax, I do understand most of the recreational boats out there are quite short and relatively wide. So, the wider your boat, the farther you will need to reach out to get your paddle in the water. In doing this you will need to lower your shaft angle, hence require a longer paddle.
You have probably noticed at least two very distinct blade shapes. One is long and narrow and the other shorter and wider. Paddles are sized generally in cm and the length given will be from blade tip to tip. What we really need to focus on is the length of the shaft, not the overall length of the paddle. A paddle with a high angle blade style (short and wide) that measures 220 centimeters will have the same shaft length as one with a low angle blade style (long and narrow) that measures 230cm( give or take a few cm in either direction). When buying one focus on the length of the shaft from throat to throat and not the overall length of the paddle. When your stroke is at your hip, the entire blade should be buried in the water with as little distance from the throat to the surface as your paddling style and boat will allow.
If you are currently paddling with a paddle that is to long, try using a shorter one sized as we discussed above. You will see improved performance, efficiency and lighter weight as you will have less paddle in your hands. As with anything there are lots of variables along with personal preference. For me, I am 6’1” and paddle with a 220cm paddle which has a high angle blade shape and it would not be awkward for me to use a 210cm. Until next time, Happy Paddling!!!

Tricks of the Trade

Over the years through trial and error I have come up with a variety of little “TRICKS OF THE TRADE” that help make my canoeing adventures, easier, more enjoyable, and organized. Some were born out of deep thought, others by accident, and still others from companions and counterparts. I tend to take most of them for granted. That is until someone else picks up on one and brings it to my attention. In this article I thought I would mention a couple of them.
Rubber bands. Not just plain old ordinary ones. I am talking about those nice big, red, heavy duty ones you get from the Post Office. They are really handy for a number of things. Take for example fastening an extra paddle into the canoe. The reason for carrying an extra in the first place is to replace a lost or broken one. Nothing like being up the creek without a paddle. Generally when you lose or break one it is because of rough conditions. The paddle needs to be securely fastened in to the canoe but also must be quickly and easily accessed when needed. The HP solution, fasten it in with a couple of rubber bands. It will stay put under the most severe conditions yet a good quick yank will snap the rubber band freeing it up for immediate use.
I like to seal all of my clothes in a sandwich of pillow cases and plastic bags. This system is sealed up with one of those heavy duty rubber bands. It works. I find it keeps things drier than those expensive dry bags. With enough wraps around the neck of the plastic bag even the most tenacious of water molecules will not get in. Of course if you get carried away it may take you some time to get in as well.
Keeping your maps dry is always a problem. They also tend to tear easily after they have been folded a couple hundred times. I have found that sealing them up in contact paper works quite well. They are now water proof and you can even write on them and erase it without damage. It does make them tough to fold. My solution. You guessed it. Roll them up and secure them with a rubber band. Another comment here. Roll them with the face out. They will be easier to handle when you need to look at them.
This past summer the family canoe expedition included several of my kids friends. The planned route had several portages which the guys were required to carry their gear and canoes from one lake to another. One of these ended up being a mile in length. I had taught the kids to carry the canoe in pairs, one at each end, upside down with the gunwales resting on their shoulders. They quickly decided this was not for them and figured out that by tying their life jackets to the seat and then resting it on their heads proved to be much more comfortable. On one portage we passed a commercially guided trip taking a break and resting their tired shoulders. The next time we saw them they were carrying their canoes with padded seats on top their heads.
If you have read past articles then you are most likely aware of my comical friend we call Barry. You never know what he will say or do next so on a trip a couple years ago when he put on two packs for a portage (one front and back) I wasn’t overly impressed. However, when he actually walked away I took a second look. Now why didn’t I think of that. I have been using this method ever since. Having weight in front really helps balance you out nicely. A word of caution. Be careful if you squat down you may not be able to straighten up. Until next time, HAPPY PADDLING!!! Check out past articles/posts at www.hpcanoes.com